Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025
The standout houses of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025
Paris Fashion Week: Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025
To enter a garment as one enters a home, to feel welcomed as one wears it… This was the feeling with which I prepared for the Hermès men’s show. On that Saturday, having bravely faced the bitter Paris cold, I took my seat with a sentence still echoing in my ears, whispered to me by my vintage Hermès leather suit, its silhouette shaped by a sharp architectural vision: “What you carry is your own life.”
For me, in the vast universe of a fashion that is at once new and timeless, Hermès has always embodied the anatomy of allure through its singular design language. The Hermès Fall 2025 men’s collection was titled “Inhabiting Time” — to live time, to exist within time, or to experience time. With this collection, Hermès expressed a conscious way of being within the flow of time: a simplicity in dialogue with past, present and future, rendered through the codes of impeccable dressing.
Ahead of the show, the house’s men’s artistic director, Véronique Nichanian, said: “I try to design clothes that make men seductive, comfortable and happy.” As magnificent colours, shaded with boundless subtlety, flowed past me — bronze, chrome green, lead grey, blood orange, celadon blue (a pale, slightly bluish-green tone, brought into the collection in reference to the celadon glazes of ancient Chinese ceramics), vanilla, pebble, taupe (a neutral colour ranging between a warm, pale brown and grey, often likened to earth tones; its name comes from the French taupe, “mole”, as the animal’s fur shares these shades)…
And my favourite colour: Prunoir. Formed from the French words prune (plum) and noir (black), this colour describes a deep, rich version of plum, verging on black, and is used in fashion and design as a sophisticated shade.
The bomber jackets, raincoats, parkas, duffle coats and, above all, the slim double-breasted suits in the collection were meticulously crafted; the attention to detail and artistry Hermès has always embraced took on an avant-garde, youthful look through a refined aesthetic sensibility. Hermès does not chase trends; by keeping its own aesthetic and meticulous craftsmanship to the fore, it remains an inspiring reference for lovers of fashion.
Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2025
Designed by the Dries Van Noten studio and directed by Julian Klausner, appointed creative director of Dries Van Noten last month, the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection takes its inspiration from William S. Burroughs’s novel The Wild Boys and Bertrand Mandico’s 2017 film adaptation.
William S. Burroughs’s The Wild Boys: A Book of the Dead (1971) is an experimental work of science fiction with anarchic, homoerotic and dystopian elements. Set in the late 20th century, the book tells the story of a chaotic, violent gang of young men who rise up against authority. The film, meanwhile, centres on a gang of five privileged boys. Rejecting the rules of modern society, they live in freedom and wage war on oppressive systems. But the boys commit a violent crime and, as a result, are sent into exile aboard a ship commanded by a mysterious captain.
The collection offers a narrative that breaks norms and leads us to question gender, desire and human nature. It shows how opposites complete one another and how artistic influences can transform masculine archetypes. Headscarves, oversized fresh-flower brooches, leather gloves and metal-tipped laces tied at the waist bring a new perspective to Dries Van Noten’s fantastical, surreal combinations.
A visually captivating and experimental wardrobe, the collection was photographed by Willy Vanderperre, whose singular eye shapes its visual narrative. With its dreamlike cinematography, the collection stands out as a step that carries the house’s deep-rooted heritage into the future, uniting the elegance and romance of the past with modern elements.
Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2025
Louis Vuitton’s Autumn/Winter 2025 men’s collection appears as the artistic reflection of two friends. The collaboration between Pharrell Williams and Nigo draws on Nigo’s archive of 20th-century workwear. Nigo’s passion for ornate yet functional workwear has been modernised, transformed between streetwear (the past) and tailoring (the present). Born of a creative synergy, the collection represents the pair’s shared history in streetwear.
The set, created by Wonderwall, the design firm founded by Masamichi Katayama, took shape in the Louvre’s Cour Carrée around a sphere formed by archive vitrines made of reusable wood. Evoking the atmosphere of the Louis Vuitton archives, these 24 vitrines held pieces on loan from the collections of Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams and Nigo, alongside works belonging to private collectors.
Nigo’s Tokyo-based archive, which gathers historical clothing including workwear, streetwear and Japanese textiles, comprises more than 10,000 rare pieces. The founder of A Bathing Ape, Nigo has been artistic director of Kenzo since 2021. Pharrell Williams, for his part, was appointed men’s creative director of Louis Vuitton in 2023.
Watching this collection is like listening to a dialogue between two old friends; it stands out as a body of work devoted to the many facets of their shared history and passions.
Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Dior Men Autumn/Winter 2025
Combining a masculine sense of elegance with a traditionally more feminine look, the Dior Men collection gives the impression that its artistic director, Kim Jones, is exploring new transformations in menswear. Drawing on Christian Dior’s Autumn/Winter 1954–55 Ligne H collection, Jones presents, at the beginning and end of the show, looks that move between haute couture and ready-to-wear.
“Throughout this collection there is a reflection on the history of fashion, and especially the history of menswear. We see the shift from the highly ornate, flamboyant style of the 18th century to a more linear, functional approach in the 19th century; this is the beginning of modern menswear,” says Kim Jones.
The idea of transformation and shape-shifting runs throughout the collection. The slippage of time, the alteration of archive garments, the passage from feminine to masculine, and even the garment itself undergoing change — a coat turning into a skirt — all reflect this approach.
The opening look is thrilling: a bow worn as a blindfold, a black turtleneck, and a coat worn backwards, its form reading as trousers, with an elegance that makes its transformation palpable… Dior’s restrained palette of grey, black, white, pearl pink and coffee tones underlines the collection’s theme of transformation and shape-shifting with a minimal stance.